CurlingSteve
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Posts posted by CurlingSteve
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In XP, once File and Printer Sharing is enabled, right-click the folder and select Sharing.
If you have "Use simple file sharing" enabled in Folder Options (View tab, bottom of the list)...
Under "Network sharing and security" enable "Share this folder on the network".
Change the "Share name" if you don't like what it defaults to.
Enable "Allow network users to change my files" if you want that.
Click OK (or Apply then OK).
Now the folder should show up in My Network Places.
Sometimes it won't though.
If it doesn't show up, click "View workgroup computers" in the "Network Tasks" pane.
Open the computer with the shared folder and see if it's listed.
If it is, open My Network Places as a second window and drag the folder there (it will create a shortcut, not move the file).
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No, you've got what you need for hardware.
Make sure both computers have different Computer Names.
Make sure both have the same Workgroup name.
Make sure File and Printer Sharing is installed and enabled on both computers.
Share whatever folders you want to copy over.
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I must be older than "older than dirt".
I got them all right.
Pass the Geritol.
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(Copied from the G4 post).
The settings you make in the BIOS are stored in a small CMOS memory chip which uses battery power to retain the settings when the computer is off.
With a flat battery these settings are lost if the computer isn't running.
That's why you keep having to redo the settings.
(It's also why removing the battery resets the BIOS password on most systems).
Replacing the battery has nothing to do with Windows, you won't have to reinstall.
Nor do you have to reflash the BIOS.
The chip used to store the BIOS program does not need power (battery or otherwise) to retain its information (program).
If you think about it, you've already been replacing the battery in a way.
Since the battery is dead, whenever you turn off the computer you "remove" the battery.
The CMOS was being powered by the main power supply while the computer was on.
When you turn the computer on the battery is "replaced" (by voltage from the power supply).
But the CMOS has reset to defaults (or cleared) so the settings have to be entered again.
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It's not a big deal.
Just delete History.dat in your profile folder.
And it doesn't appear to be crashing everyone.
I had to work hard to crash mine.
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I ran that "exploit".
What it does is write 2,500,000 A's to the tab title.
My History.dat file jumped from around 593 KB to 10,691 KB but Firefox kept running normally.
One thing I didn't try was clearing the history.
I expect it would take a long time to run (and people would assume Firefox had crashed and abort it).
It didn't crash anything until I started fooling around with renaming and replacing History.dat.
When I switched back to the big History.dat Firefox wouldn't launch.
But I suspect it was my messing around that froze it.
Deleting History.dat and letting Firefox create a fresh one cleared things up.
It's not a security problem.
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You folks might also enjoy Motion Aftereffects.
Try this one.
Look at the spirals for a minute or so, then look at the back of your hand.
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From what I read in this forum/thread:
HDDs by Magnetic Data Technology
I get the impression MDT uses a variety of hard drives when they refurbish and rebrand their drives.
FDISK should be able to handle the partitioning.
A full FORMAT should test for and lock out any bad sectors.
Running CHKDSK should give you an indication of the drive's health.
Are you running XP?
Perhaps Device Manager will tell you the original drive manufacturer.
Searching their website might find you more intensive drive diagnotics for that model.
This site - Hard Disk Drive Diagnostics/Utilities - seems to have some good links to drive diagnostics.
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What file(s) specifically are you trying to delete?
There are some system files that Windows demands be present.
If any of these monitored files are deleted or even renamed, Windows replaces it from its backup copy.
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A few things to look at on this issue.iTunes will run, but does not use its icon for any shortcuts (desktop, taskbar, etc.), so its registry or something is corrupted?Several other programs also seem to have lost their logo icons, like iTunes, but many are OK.
(1) Open Folder Options to the FIle Types tab and take a look at some of the extensions that are missing icons.
Highlight some that have the wrong icon and verify the extension is associated with the right program.
Also check if the right icon shows up in the Folder Options list.
If not, click the Advanced button.
Then click the Change Icon button and select the icon you want displayed.
Click OK. Click OK.
(2) If the proper icon appears in Folder Options, run TweakUI.
(You can download it from Microsoft Powertoys if you don't have a copy).
The Repair branch has a Rebuild Icons function that should clean up the icon cache in the Regstry for you.
(3) Check the program's main EXE file and see if it displays the proper icon.
One way to find the EXE file is to right-click the shortcut to it and select Properties.
Click the Find Target button and Explorer should open with the EXE file highlighted.
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As far as the Office problem is concerned, the only thing I can think of at the moment is to uninstall then reinstall Office.
But that may be risky since you say the CD won't run a Repair install.
And since you've got functionality (once you get past those error boxes) you may want to wait and see if a better suggestion comes along.
What does the CD say when it refuses to run the Repair Installation?
Is it something about an SKUxyz.CAB file?
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I get "hiccups" that sound like what you're describing from both Firefox and IE.
And it happens with a variety of sites including Google, G4, and here.
When I see a page taking longer than I'd expect to load, most of the time if I Stop the current attempt then hit Refresh or reload the URL the page loads properly and at normal speed.
I figure it's either my router or my ISP since it happens on more than one computer, different browsers, and different Firefox versions.
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An oldie but a goodie.
Bacon.
(Especially after a heart transplant).
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That's one I've never run into.Firefox sometimes insists on saving images as files with an .html extension.Is it only with certain sites (which I'm guessing may not be encoded properly)?
Or is it random?
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I'm still surprised you had a problem trying to save it with Firefox.
You're sure you clicked "Save Image As" and not "Save Page As"?
That's the only reason I can think of for Firefox saving as HTML instead of PNG.
As far as I've seen, Firefox doesn't suffer from that Temporary Internet Files overload problem that IE has.
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(1.) Your link isn't accessible to the general public, one needs to be a "member" to view that page.
(2.) Some possible workarounds.
(A.) When IE insists on saving as a BMP file (and won't offer any other formats) quite often emptying the Temporary Internet Files will correct that behavior.
IE will (usually) again offer to save as JPEG, PNG, or whatever.
(B.) Try renaming the saved BMP file from XYZ.BMP to XYZ.PNG and see if a PNG was actually saved.
(C.) Use Firefox or IE to save the entire page as HTML.
Then open the associated image folder and see if the PNG file you want was downloaded to there.
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Oops!
I didn't consider the wireless keyboard factor.
It would make sense for it to stop after a key was held down to long, it would assume the keyboard was put down upside down for instance.
Perhaps there's a setting in the keyboard's options to increase the time window or disable that feature.
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When you installed Firefox the first time a new profile (Default) was automatically created for you.
To open the Profile Manager so you can create a fresh profile use:
Start, Run, Firefox -p
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For the adventurous (or impatient) you might try this:
Originally posted by: markofkane over at G4Make all of your old extensions work with "Nightly tester tools 0.7.9.10"
I had a few false starts but eventually I got all my favorite extensions going.
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Where did you get the idea that saving the battery was involved?
More likely, the keystroke buffer fills up and won't accept furthur input.
And I'm afraid if you thought Notepad would edit a device driver, modifying one is beyond you.
Let your friend have a look at it.
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I have nothing but praise for the WRT54G.
I have one and love it.
I had a Netgear (I forget he model) at first and had nothing but trouble with it.
I was having to power-cycle everything several times a day to keep connected.
Keep in mind, that was my first router/networking experience so the problems may have been my fault.
But when I tried the Linksys, everything ran fine from day one.
I use Linksys exclusively now.
That's a good price for the WRT54G.
Circuit City shows it for $70, but there's a $30 mail-in rebate so it's $40 net.
I assume you would get the same rebate buying through NewEgg.
Go for it.
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Marty,
Apparently, you can't install Recovery Console on a 64 bit operating system.
The Recovery Console Cannot Be Installed on 64-Bit Windows Platforms
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My vote?
G, especially if you're going to copy files from machine to machine.
B is sufficient for internet communication, but agonizingly slow for file transfers.
And these days, G doesn't cost much more (if at all).
Nice chart Bubba Bob.
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XP's Search (in Explorer) can search for files by size to a limited degree.
In the left panel there's a "What size is it" option.
First, set "All or part of the file name:" to "*.*".
Then click the down arrows for size.
There are presets for Small, Medium, and Large but you'll probably want Specify size.
For example, Click the "Specify size (in KB)", sel the dropdown to "at least" (the default), and enter 100000 in the number box.
Click Search and Xp will find all files larger than 100 MB.
Unforfurnately there's no "between" option available.
I'd find that useful.
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Are you sure the speed was from the RAID and not just better (higher RPM) drives in the array?
Also, thinking of the MaPa when you're at school, maybe a RAID 1 array would deliver some increased (at least) read speed while also being fault tolerant should a drive fail.
I like these simple charts and explantions of the various RAID configurations.
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I'm not up on desktop video cards (laptop man here).
But if I were you, I'd forget bothering with RAID 0.
You're very unlikely to see any performance benefit from it.
If you bother with any kind of RAID, I'd use RAID 1 (mirroring).
That way if one drive fails the other can take over.
Read performance should be improved, but whether enough to notice? Reports vary.
Personally I'd skip RAID altogether.
Sorry I'm not helping with your question, but I see RAID and I cringe.
Would It Be Over Kill
in Windows 10, 8, 7, Vista, and XP
Posted
Jsut before you shutdown your system after a typical session, open Task Manager and take a look at the Performance tab.
The Commit Charge, Peak value is an indicator of the most memory you used during the session.
If that's less than 1 GB you aren't likely to see any difference going to 2 GB.