Freidog
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Posts posted by Freidog
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we are "running out" of 32 bit address, If i remember correctly if its not done already, people are working on a 128 bit address.
At first people said 32 bit address would be enough and we'd never run out, well now were running out
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Running out is a subjective term,
there are more than enough IPv4 addresses for the internet to continue to grow for probalby a decade or two.
It's the distrobution of IP addresses that's the problem.
IBM owns the 9.x.x.x block, about 16.8 million addresses. Similarly a lot of the companies (and government agencies) involved in the early developement of the internet have massive 24 bit blocks of addresses allocated to them, many many times what they could ever hope to use.
So now developing parts of the world, china, india, africa, dont' have free access to the large numbers of addresses they might need. Even though there is lots of address space not yet used.
IPv6 in addition to of course providing an absolutely massive address space, seeks to define blocks geographically to ensure every part of the world has plenty of address space to expand into, even if their web infastructure is not yet well developed. And of course to fill out the shortcomings of IPv4.
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It can go either way, it's just a large list of names and their associated IPs.
The most common is name -> IP.
When you type in a url in your browser, it sends off a DNS request to which the reply is the IP of the server hosting the site. That allows your browser to establish a TCP (or other protocol depending on the type of connection you want, HTTP, streaming media, FTP whatever) connecton to the server.
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I know this has been asked in similar threads, but I do not feel it was fully answered. I own the following OEM versions of windows XP: sp1 home, sp2 home, sp1 professional, sp2 professional. Since computers that are sold with XP preinstalled are OEM versions, shouldn't the key that is on the COA of any of these computers(dells, emachines, etc..) work with the corresponding XP OEM disk to do a reinstall in most(all) instances?
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A CD isn't tied to a key. With a valid XP home OEM CD key you can successfully install from any XP home OEM disc onto any computer.
So yes as long as you use a CD key specific to that machine (ie the MS product code on the case as you suggest), you should be able to install from any disc of the same product and activate it.
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yep, go with Venice: lower power, better memory controller, SSE3 and cheaper what's not to like?
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there are a couple ways to do it I think.
There is a logoff script in windows,
you can edit it under the group policy snap-in the Microsoft Management Console (start run MMC, add group policy as a snap-in to console root). Under windows settings in there you've got scripts log on and log off.
You should be able to invoke bat files and I think .vbs files from those. But I've never actually done that.
There's also the option of running your own file when you want to log off and after the backup utilities / everything you want to run is finished, call a shutdown utility like PsShutDown (I think XP has something like this built in, for 2000 you need the resource kit or a 3rd party utlility like that)
It's not as intuitive as clicking shutdown and having windows do it for you, but it should work all the same.
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if you're not gaming, 1GiB is overkill.
The venice core chips can handle 4 sticks ok (sometimes you have to drop them to 2T command rate), so if you need to go to 4x256 you can.
(obviously you'd want two of the single 256MiB sticks).
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Im formatting a new drive should I just make it one partition or two partition one partition just for the os and another partition for everything else.
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Well, I'm not a fan of the OS partition anymore.
12/04/2002 04:12p <DIR> Program Files08/20/2005 10:40a <DIR> Quake3 Source
11/20/2004 12:52p <DIR> Rome Total War
07/01/2005 12:33p <DIR> Visual Studio .NET 2003
12/04/2002 04:09p <DIR> WINNT
It's really just not neccessary to reinstall windows 2000/XP that much anymore.
If you need to reinstall the OS, you have to reinstall all the applications as well, so just back up your data to a CD-RW or flash drive, maybe keep an image of a basic OS install, ie windows, office, other vital software you have, most drivers (I leave out video drivers, they're updated so often you'll do that on a clean install anyway), that sort of thing.
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i dunno but this little card packs alot of power i say its better than the 7800gtx and itll cost you alot more than a 7800gtx
WildCat Realizm 800
Full programmability.
...snip...
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I take it, you've never actually used a 3D Labs card.
Those are 'professional' 3D cards meant for 3D animation / modeling or CAD type work.
It's probably fairly comperable to the 7800 GT, at least in OpenGL. Direct X support has never been great for these types of cards (becuase a lot of the time they're running on something other than windows).
But for any gaming, the 7800GTX is the faster card. At one third the cost.
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http://takaman.jp/D/index.html?english
Anything that doesn't estimate individual rails is essentially useless. Total wattage is not a useful measure of a power supply.
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Quoted for truth.
In addition to being fairly inaccurate (or at least far too generic. 25W for a HDD? HA, 8W-12W read write for most IDE/SATA drives, over 30W at spinup for the same drives), the lack of specific rail breakdowns makes it worthless.
Especially considering most modern computers draw between 75 and 90% of their power from the 12V rail.
What good is recomending at 300W PSU if you go buy one with 12A @12V for a 6600GT and a Venice chip? ( Which can easily need 15-18A @ 12V depending on drives and fans)
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Seems like it's made by super flower and resold by Aspire (amoung others probably) which is good thing, Super Flower makes some pretty good quality stuff.
$30 is a reasonable price for an LCD temp monitor + fan controller.
The question is how much do you get out of the temp monitoring. It can be helpful to monitor a few devices if you really think you'll be stressing them, the PSU and ram (if overclocked / over volted). Maybe you want an ambient case temp. But the likelyhood of it providing substantial usefull information is slim.
Straight fan controllers that support 3-4 fans are readily availible for about $10 or even less.
So, do you want to spend $20 on temperature monitoring? Knowing that it is mainly a cosmetic and not functional item.
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Is the ram really that big of a deal? Since the value select is coming out of my old system its free. 1 gb of XMS is like $125 on newegg. Thanks for the headsup on the psu, ill change it now.
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The differnce between really good ram (2-2-2-6 like some XMS is) and really bad ram (3-4-4-8) is meaningful.
The differnce between really good ram and pretty good ram (VS 2.5-3-3-7, and really it should do 2.5-2-2 no trouble) is pretty minimal.
There were a few good tests on ram latency, that I have since lost the links too, that would probably put the difference in the range of 1-3%. Something I sincerely doubt you'd ever actually be able to notice without a whole suite of benchmarks to tell you it was slower.
Only real advantage of top quality ram is that it overclocks better.
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The Wisper II is a bit on the lower end of the quality scale from Enermax (not bad, but you can do better). Since you're not going for an SLI motherboard (good call) you won't miss the second PCIe power connector.
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http://www.tomshardware.com/cpu/20030623/p4_3200-02.html
my p4 is a northwood A put i cant turn ht on its not in my bios.
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Norhtwood 'A' and Northwood "B" (except the 3.06B) did not have HT enabled.
The 3.06B was the first desktop chip to have enabled, the Northwood C line (800mhz FSB models) followed suit.
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the fan works but is advertised at 2500-2700 rpms mine spins at 2200 and i have followed artic silvers instructions i know what i'm doin. This fan worked good for about the first 2 months i had it then it just went down hill from there. i just would like to know a good socket A HSF rated for my 3000+
yeah and i'm thinkin under $25
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why not just replace the fan then?
A decent fan (60 - 92 mm in that range) will run you under $10.
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It's actually most noticable in the left half of the screen. So I'm assuming this means the left backlight is going out (Given this particular screen has them on the sides instead of the top/bottom).
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Given that, yes. A bad backlight on the left side is my best guess.
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Nope, the hinges are intact, and removing the cover doesn't show any damage to the cabling. The image itself is fine, it's just the backlight that is flickering.
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Backlights are actually relatively easy to replace (and fairly cheap too).Replacments are readily availble and pretty cheap
As long as you don't mind opening the screen up and doing some pretty basic soldering you can replace a backlight without too much risk to the screen.
Keep in mind, if it happens across the entire screen it might not be the backlight. Most LCDs have two backlights, top and bottom. If flickering happens accross the entire screen about evenly, it may be the inverter or even the power it's being fed.
Inverters are still replaceable, and they're not very difficult from an instilation standpoint. But inverters are generally rather expensive (some upwards of $100), and they are designed for use with specific screens. Finding the right one can be difficult, especially in older laptops.
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OH! And about this thread. Someone correct me if im wrong, but should he be looking into Cisco & MCSE certifications?
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Yes.
Cisco and MCSE (if you're at a windows house), there are also similar things for Linux and Unix, I know Red Hat has thier own "Red Hat Certified Engineer Program."
MCSE has been sort of devalued over the years with the flood of MCSE certified people, but Cisco have some very useful certification programs.
A+ is a gateway cert, it's what you need to work as PC repair guy or like. Some useful info, a lot of it is quite archaic though. Things like the default I/O address of an EPP Parallel port, or standard com port settings. Nothing you're going to be taught in a college CS program, but nothing some one familiar with computers can't take a book and an online practice exam and learn in a long weekend.
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I am in the process right now of trying to find a college to apply to over the next two years, but first I am having a little trouble choosing a major.
I intend on finding a job as "an IT guy" at a company and I am a little confused in picking a major. With the little research I have done (google) "computer science" sounds close, but I don't really want a job writing computer coding.
If anyone has a remote idea of what I am saying help me PLEASE!
(I won't be able to reply because I've got to go off to work now)
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There's not really too many (that I've seen) bachelor's degrees targeted at IT specifically. I'm cleaning up my last few hours in a Computer Science degree this semester and I have one course related to networking, and it focused more on software developement, rather than network structure and design (though we got that too). This was a technical elective, not a required course.
I think there are really more associate type degrees that are specific towards IT. That and some of the Cisco certifications would probably be a better foundation for you. Now, I don't really know whether people right now prefer to hire a 4 year degree over a specialized 2 year one.
Computer Science (in my experience) is very much a math degree with an strong emphasis with appling that math to using computers. By default you will probably have a math minor in CS ciriculum.
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I am looking at building a high end gaming pc. I am looking at getting an amd 64 4000+ but would it be worth it to upgrade to one of the X2's?
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An X2 3800+ isn't a bad choice if you intend to overclock.
Not very pricey, about the exact same price as the 4000+.
And they overlcok well, about the same ~2.5-2.6ghz you'll get out of any Rev E chip.
At stock speeds the 4000+ will give you far more bang for the buck in games.
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Ok another question when a Althon 64 says its 3200+, 3400+, etc that means its equal in speed to a pentium 4 3.2?
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yes,
no,
maybe a little a but don't use it as a guide.
all valid answers.
Back when P4 was released and starting ramping up clock speed, AMD started their "PR" ratings for AthlonXPs
They *said* it was in compraison to a Tbird core Athlon.
It was *apparent* they were meant to compare with P4's clock speeds.
At this point, P4, PM, Athlon64 perform very differently in any two different tasks.
An Athlon64 (and PentiumM for that matter) is a great chip for gaming, a 3500+ will hang around with a 3.8ghz Prescott 2M, or a 3.73ghz P4EE.
They're not so good for video ecoding.
Throw a nice SSE2 optimized, multithreaded video ecoding program at them and a 3.2ghz Prescott will probably take the cake over a 3500+.
Don't rely on those ratings to tell you anything of value.
Look at benchmarks, specifically those dealing with applications you'd like to use.
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I have a few wireless netwrok questions. I have xp Home with all updates. My router is a links model wrt54gs.
First I dont understand how to use the SSID at all. I know that this deals with my network name and its purpose is to hide the name but for the life of me I cant figure this out.
Mac Address, what is this and how do I know what to set up to make my network more secure. Thanks for helping me out
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SSID is (sort of) a name for your network.
You should change that to a unique name for your network and disable SSID broadcast. That will prevent people from finding your wifi just from being in range.
You can access SSID info on the wireless tab of the router settings. (accessed by typing in 192.168.1.1 in a web browsers address bar)
Chapter 5 of the has more info.
By setting the SSID like that you'll have to manually type in the SSID of your wifi network the first time you setup the wireless cards.
Mac addresses are unique identifiers for each network card.
You can find a card's MAC by typing ipconig /all in a command prompt. (I think windows calls it as 'Physical address').
What you want to do is restric access to your nework using MAC addresses,
to enable it, again on the wireless tap of the router settings,
enable it, set it to 'permit only'
and add the MAC addresses of all your wireless cards to the list.
Once that's done, only the network cards that you have set to allow on will be permitted on the network.
You should also enable WPA since your router supports it. It's a way of encrypting network traffic. Just adds one more layer of security to your network.
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So in other works the Althon 64 is a beefed up Althon XP
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Athlon64 is sort of the next generation of the AthlonXP.
It has a nubmer of new features (the important ones being SSE2 and the memory controller on the CPU) that give it a pretty good speed advantage over an AthlonXP of the same clock speed.
But there are no radical departures from the AthlonXP architecture.
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Assuming that I was already going to spend $100 on the board, two cards on SLI for $300 would outperform a $300 video card by itself, then it'll just be a little extra on the PSU
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But they won't outperform the single $300 card. At any resolution/Image quality you'd want to play (you don't spend $300-400 on a video setup to run at 1024x768 no AA), the dual 6600GTs and single 6800GT are virtually identical
Price wise, you're better off with a single 6800GT, hard to find a $150 PCIe 6600GT right now, they're more in the $160 range. Harder than it has been to find a $300 PCIe 6800GT, but still more than a few around.
performance wise you're at least as well off with a single 6800GT.
heat and power wise (cost of cooling and PSU) you're better off with a single 6800GT. Single 6800GT needs abou 60W, dual 6600GTs need a total of about 90-100W.
SLI can provide some speed advantage over the fastest cards out there, when using the fastests cards out there.
It is not a cost effective way to turn a few mid range parts into a top end system.
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...and plugging it into a 24-pin ATX connector is a Very Bad Idea. Just to be absolutely clear.
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fortunately the CPU connector and the other 4 pins are keyed differently.
It would take a rather large hammer to get the CPU connector to fit.
3d Women
in Graphic Design
Posted
So, that particular model was made in 3DS Max5.
It's a fairly popular commerical modeling / animation program but you can do similar work in many programs. For commercial software, Max obviously, Maya, Lightway Softimage XSI, Cienama 4D, many others. They run from a few hundred for a student license to many thousands of dollars.
Blender is a good (probably the best) fully functionally free modeler / animation, if memory serves blender also support a scripting language - python or perl something of that ilk - to let you do complex interaction / animations.
3DS Max and maya have free editions, but there are sever limitations. Maya PLE has a large watermark on the renders and viewports. GMax is a game modding oriented version of 3DS Max, fully functional modeler (like Maya PLE has) with plugin support for exporting to game file formats, but no renderer at all.